DIYINHK DDC Pump Toshiba PCB Replacement Mod

Posted: April 14, 2011 in Pumps
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Potentiometer (Variable Resistor) Control DDC-3 (Blue)

So we got standard voltage control testing out of the way, but the real treat to this controller is it’s built in ability to control speed.  Through the guidance in the XS thread and help of fellow members, it was suggested that a 50Kohm potentiometer would be just right.  I stopped by radioshack and picked up a few different flavors, and can confirm that 50K is just right.  I tried a 100K and found that it had the ability to reduce speeds below startup, but 50K was just about perfect giving a nice large range of control.  I used a larger .5watt pot, but you could easily use one of the mini .1watt pots as well if you can find them.  I could only find the mini in a 100K size from the shack.

To install, you first need to break the bridge trace on the PCB between the VSP and VREF, then install wires from the PCB to the pot.  Those details can be seen below:

Speed Controller Installation

The potentiometer basically reduces voltage that is supplied by Vref to about 2.4V variable to 5V.  One meter said 2.44V minimum, while another multimeter said 2.35V which is partly due to the meters and wiring themselves.  I then proceeded to retest a few settings starting at the minimum and working up to the maximum.  The pot controller really worked well in giving the pump a very broad range of pumping power.  The low setting feels similar to a D5 setting 1, and the high setting like a D5 strong at 24V.  It’s really quite impressive.  The hardest part of this was removing the bridge between VSP and Vref, it’s very small and hard to see, and I simply used a knife to scratch the trace away creating a break between the two points.

50K Pot, lowest setting VSP=2.35V

Med/Low VSP=3.0V

Med/High VSP=3.5V

At high speed, the pump works and tests the same as the 12V analog test where VSP and Vref are both 5.0V.

50K Pot speed control comparison

The potentiometer really gives it a nice large speed operating range, much larger than voltage control is capable of.  As high of a speed as these pumps run with these controllers at 12V, I would highly recommend doing the potentiometer mod as part of the package.  You could also mount the potentiometer controller just about anywhere for easy access.

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  1. Doug says:

    how much and were can i get one thanks

  2. Jim says:

    Sure you can buy them, just not on Ebay anymore.. $15 for the Toshiba cont. PCB and $10 for the Sanyo cont. PCB + $4 for world wide shipping. Here is the link:

  3. ned says:

    Hi can someone tell me which pcb i should go for on DIYINHK website there is a 10W blue and 18W white one. My pump is a DDC 3.2 PWM with a burnt board, i know i won’t get pmw but can i still control the white one by doing what’s been said on page 3 ?.

  4. ned says:

    The pot you used .5W i can only find the following
    Would this do as it has .01W .02W Rating ?

  5. ned says:

    Hi i’ve finally revived my dcc pump and used a 50k pot because loss of pwm. where are you reading your vsp? i put a voltmeter on pot terminals it reads 2.39v at lowest but wen i turn it up the reading gets lower ? have you got any idea why that is?

  6. ned says:

    Lol i had the meter on vsp and vref stupid me, i found ground at the end and it worked according to your chart. very quite pump at the lowest setting i am truly impressed and glad i did this to revive my pump saved me $200… i am all for MODS :-) thank you martin for you great work.

  7. Fernando says:

    hi,I got I new pcb(the white one) and I want do add a controller,is it possible to add the volt controller on a molex extention instead of cutting the pcb and adding there?

    • Martinm210 says:

      Probably, reducing molex voltage is generally an option with most pumps, but most also have a minimum start up necessary so if you accidentally adjust by accident too low the pump won’t start. That can be bad if you were unaware which is why I tend to steer clear of regular fan controllers. Most pumps seem like they need at least 8V to start.

  8. Fernando says:

    i got the pumb back form my friend(he did the soldering) but i think is not soldered correctly,the pump just shakes arround and the rotor doesnt spin.
    it was the v3.3 with the white pcp,do you know the wires diagram?

  9. diyinhk says:

    Hi, a new pcb with pwm control is just done! I am happy if you have interest to play with it but I lose your email and address…

    • Martinm210 says:

      Sorry, I moved and not currently planning anymore testing or reviews. PWM sounds really cool though, would be particularly good if it shared the same noise quality of the sanyo controller but with the Toshiba power all under PWM..:)