Let’s have a closer look at the exterior of the pump itself.
This is the pump in its optimal “TOP INLET” configuration. Alternatively you can switch out the two barb/plug on the left if space and tubing routing needs that, I’ll cover the performance differences between the two options later in the review performance testing section.
The side of the top does have two “pin hole” locations which I presume are for some sort of mounting system to the new bay reservoir they are working on. Also not visible in the photo, there is also a similar pin hole on top next to the barb which is designed to accept the MCP35xRES cylindrical reservoir. These are just all notes that the top is also very modular to be married together with reservoir options as well.
In the back you see the Cables and Connectors. Pretty straight forward, the pumps always need the power cables connected via the yellow/black molex connectors. The green/blue 4-pin pin fan headers are for speed control and are optionally connected. You can run the pump without the speed control cables connected just fine, the pumps simply run at 100% speed if there is no speed signal.
Also notice the “Warranty Void” stickers. These are intended to prevent accidental damage to the pumps from improper installation. I have managed to flood out and cause leaks to other DDC pumps by not tightening the pump tops on properly so I do understand the reasoning. By nature of the design, these pump motors don’t have any isolation of the electronics, so an improper top installation is almost a sure way to flood out the electroncis and damage the pump. If you want to retain your warranty, you’ll have to leave the top alone.
Of coarse, I’m going to break the rules to show you the internals as part of this review next, but I advise that you don’t remove the top unless you are willing to accept responsibility and forgo the warranty.
At the base of the two pump motors you will find the four pump top screws. This is also where you would install the neoprene pads to decouple the pump from vibration though I would advise that you only install the two outer pads and allow air to flow under the pumps as well for cooling. Also watch for the new 35X2 heatsink in the works to really add some good cooling.
And here is a visual of the “Alternate Inlet” configuration. I’ll be testing both options, but the optimal performance should come from the top in option.
The exterior of the pump is all high quality components and excellence in machining quality. About the only thing I could see some users preferring is to sleeve the wires, but since most people do that themselves anyway in a variety of colors, I’m not sure it makes sense to do them all that way. The pump top is also very modular in that it can be run with a couple of different reservoirs directly attached to the pump or it can be run stand alone in two different inlet configurations.