External Review
Let’s have a closer look at the exterior of the pump itself.
This is the pump in its optimal “TOP INLET” configuration. Alternatively you can switch out the two barb/plug on the left if space and tubing routing needs that, I’ll cover the performance differences between the two options later in the review performance testing section.
The side of the top does have two “pin hole” locations which I presume are for some sort of mounting system to the new bay reservoir they are working on. Also not visible in the photo, there is also a similar pin hole on top next to the barb which is designed to accept the MCP35xRES cylindrical reservoir. These are just all notes that the top is also very modular to be married together with reservoir options as well.
In the back you see the Cables and Connectors. Pretty straight forward, the pumps always need the power cables connected via the yellow/black molex connectors. The green/blue 4-pin pin fan headers are for speed control and are optionally connected. You can run the pump without the speed control cables connected just fine, the pumps simply run at 100% speed if there is no speed signal.
Also notice the “Warranty Void” stickers. These are intended to prevent accidental damage to the pumps from improper installation. I have managed to flood out and cause leaks to other DDC pumps by not tightening the pump tops on properly so I do understand the reasoning. By nature of the design, these pump motors don’t have any isolation of the electronics, so an improper top installation is almost a sure way to flood out the electroncis and damage the pump. If you want to retain your warranty, you’ll have to leave the top alone.
Of coarse, I’m going to break the rules to show you the internals as part of this review next, but I advise that you don’t remove the top unless you are willing to accept responsibility and forgo the warranty.
At the base of the two pump motors you will find the four pump top screws. This is also where you would install the neoprene pads to decouple the pump from vibration though I would advise that you only install the two outer pads and allow air to flow under the pumps as well for cooling. Also watch for the new 35X2 heatsink in the works to really add some good cooling.
And here is a visual of the “Alternate Inlet” configuration. I’ll be testing both options, but the optimal performance should come from the top in option.
The exterior of the pump is all high quality components and excellence in machining quality. About the only thing I could see some users preferring is to sleeve the wires, but since most people do that themselves anyway in a variety of colors, I’m not sure it makes sense to do them all that way. The pump top is also very modular in that it can be run with a couple of different reservoirs directly attached to the pump or it can be run stand alone in two different inlet configurations.
You just made my mind up on what pump/s system to get for my own personal rig. As well as the pumps i will be recommending in my shop. I love this pump setup. Swiftech have done a really good job with this product and for that matter the single unit system too.
e, jednakowoż teraz
przyjechało mocne pociągnięcie. Elke Zamknięcie sznurka
wyskoczył w dłoni, zniknął w zaroślach. Huk tratowanych
flor roslinnych,
skończony potężnym beknięciem. Wcześniej po wszystkim.
Hey Martin. I’m putting together my first water cooled computer and since the basement ambience is 5-15 degrees celsius cooler (depending on time of year), I’m planning to put a remote radiator there. The extra length of tubing will be about 8-10 feet round trip.This dual pump will come in handy with its extra head. The temp advantage, and noise isolation makes it appropriate to have the pump by the radiator and keep all noise out of my home office. I haven’t got everything figured out yet, for example – I’d like to keep the reservoir at the highest point to enable air bubbles to exit there, rather than by the pump/radator. I still don’t know how to handle cabling, and placing the pump remotely will complicate the PWM controlling off the motherboard+the 12V power supply. I’m not totally clear as to what it will mean in terms of maintenance either (i.e. opening loops, running up and down the stairs etc). Any suggestions, or warnings are welcome.
I have seen it done before. My only suggestion is to use larger ID tubing as the length does start adding some restriction. A nice large reservoir would make filling easier too. I would probably place it right before the pump. It’s a good setup that way. Been done before.
Question: Would you recommend two swiftechs 35x with a single top connected with a tube to avoid vibrations or would you recommend a dual top like for example the EK-DDC Dual TOP V.2 G1/4 – Black Acetal?
I think either option works fine. Dual top is just more compact and cleaner looking.
I have another question: is there any advantage of using a different pump top for Swiftech Extreme Flow Dual 12v DC Pump like the EK Water Blocks EK-DDC Dual TOP V.2 G1/4 instead of the original dual pump top of swiftech or is it just for aesthetics?
Mostly aesthetics, it’s a pretty optimized top already. I found the 35x top and xspc tops to be pretty close depending on the barb used so I assume the same is true for the dual top.